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Carretera de la Muerte 5/6/2011
Durante a minha estadia em La Paz fiz aquela que viria a ser uma das melhores experiências da minha vida. Já tinha lido e visto documentários mas as minhas expectativas foram em muito superadas. Fazer a Carretera de La Muerte foi indescritível!
A estrada que liga as cidades de La paz e Coroico foi construída nos anos 30 com mão-de-obra de presos de guerra Paraguaios, durante a guerra do Chaco que opôs a Bolívia ao Paraguai. Foi a mais sangrenta na América do Sul no Séc. XX, ainda por cima pelo controlo de um pedaço de deserto que, erradamente, se julgava ser rico em óleo.
Enfim, o Homem no seu melhor!
O que é certo é que se construiu e foi, até 2006 quando foi inaugurada a nova estrada, a única alternativa que ligava a região de Yungas no norte da Amazónia Boliviana com a capital do país (La Paz).
Em 1995 o Banco Interamericano de Desenvolvimento, depois de vários estudos, considerou-a a estrada mais perigosa do mundo (The most dangerous road in the world). Constataram que, em média, entre 200 e 300 pessoas morriam e 26 veículo despenhavam-se por ano ao fazer este percurso.
É caracterizada por ter a largura de uma só via na maioria do trajecto, de apenas 3,2m. Um precipício a pique e quase constante, de normalmente 600 metros. A queda de grandes rochas, o desprendimento de terras (a cima e a baixo da estrada), a chuva, lama, nevoeiro frequente, cascatas e rios completam os condimentos que transformam este trajeto numa arma mortífera.



Nos dias de hoje só poucos condutores que realmente gostam da estrada e algumas empresas de desporto aventura (BTT), utilizam esta “estrada” e se aventuram por este downhill onde se descende 3345 m em apenas 64Km.



Pode-se dizer que são 64 Km de pura adrenalina.
Desde La Combre no Altiplano a (4640m) com temperaturas negativas e neve a Coroico na rainforest a (1295 m) e um calor insuportável, a estrada tem algumas regras criadas para ajudar a minimizar os riscos. Assim, conduz-se do lado esquerdo da estrada contrariamente ao que se faz no resto da Bolívia. Dando assim ao condutor uma melhor visibilidade e noção da posição da roda mais perto do precipício.

Também, quem desce nunca tem prioridade e deve encostar o mais possível à berma dando passagem a quem sobe. Obrigando assim os veículos mais rápidos a parar para de uma forma mais segura negociar a passagem. Por vezes demoram horas.

O acidente com mais vitimas de-se a 24 de julho de 1983 quando um autocarro despistou-se caindo no precipício e matando 100 pessoas. Nestes países o número de vitimas em acidentes de bus normalmente é aumentado devido ao sobrelotação e ainda ao facto de muitas vezes levarem dezenas de pessoas no tejadilhos sem qualquer proteção.
No que diz respeito aos turistas (ciclistas), nos últimos anos morreram 18 a fazer este trajeto, o último fui uma francesa que à um ano, numa curva apertada, perdeu o controlo da bicicleta e caiu lá a baixo.

Chegamos bem cedo a La Cumbre, a primeira parte é alcatroada, nos primeiros troços desce-se a 60/80Km/h por entre montanhas cheias de neve e paisagens de tirar o folgo. Quer pela beleza quer pela consciência que, aquela velocidade durante a maior parte do percurso, uma pequena guinada no guiador e a queda seria de mais de mil metros.



Link Video
Comecei com bastante precaução, pois à algum tempo não andava de bicicleta, mas apenas por uns minutos. Em pouco tempo deixei-me levar pela excitação da velocidade e do perigo e foi só curtir. Até porque tinha capacete. Que mal me podia acontecer.
As maiores emoções ainda estavam por vir ao entrar na propriamente dita Carretera de la Muerte. A velocidade diminuiu mas o perigo aumentou com as estreitas estradas de empedrado ladeadas por penhascos de 600m, com acentuada inclinação, curvas apertadas, passar por baixo de cascatas, atravessar rios. A adrenalina realmente ajuda a manter a concentração necessária e esquecer o receio de cair.



Eu com a mania das fotos, e de maneira nenhuma podendo tirar nenhuma em andamento, até porque estava escrito no role de regras que tive de comprometer-me a cumprir sob risco de ser obrigado a continuar de bus e não de BTT, tive de parar por diversas vezes para ir tirando algumas e depois para apanhar o grupo era sempre a abrir. O que eu curti!



Ainda deu para uma pequena queda quando estava quase parado depois de atravessar um rio e a roda da frente se enterrou no fino cascalho. E ficar sem travões (Vídeo) ao sair de uma curva (felizmente não foi ao entrar), quando o travão da frente (por sorte) deixou de funcionar por ter desapertado devido à trepidação e o outro partiu tal não foi a força que fiz para conseguir parar apenas com um. Tive de esperar pelo carro de apoio e trocar de bicicleta. Foi já na parte final e fez com que fosse o último a chegar a Coroico.



Link video dos travoes
Durante todo o percurso ainda deu para aprender algumas coisas da história da estrada como, quando em 1944 o ditador que governava pegou nos cinco membros da oposição e os atirou de mãos e pés atados de um lugar onde agora esta uma (meia) placa com os seus nomes e uma inscrição “ Os Mártires de la Democra...”. O resto da placa caiu lá a baixo juntamente com o táxi que se despistou e o partiu.
Ou ver o resgate dos corpos e haveres pessoais do bus que tinha caído dois dias antes.

Ou, por todo o trajeto, ver muitos lugares onde marcas quase verticais rasgavam o verde pelo precipício abaixo até perder de vista, onde carros caíram no passado.

Ou o local onde à uns anos um grupo de ciclistas parou e uma israelita (do grupo) passou por eles e nem abrandou. Uns dizem que tentou travar mas os travões não funcionaram. Outros dizem que nem tentou.
Etc, etc.....
No final de tudo ainda deu para fazer 1500 metros de slide para acalmar (Video).



O pior foram as dores musculares no traseiro, braços e ombros nos dias seguintes, mas fiquei fã de BTT e compreendo agora os que gostam, se partem todos e continuam a gostar.
Downhill é delirante!

 
Podem ver mais fotos deste dia aqui no Picasa
PUBLICADA POR: JORGE

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