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A Cultura do Gorro 5/4/2011
Na ilha de Taquile vivem 2000 pessoas entre famílias de pescadores e de agricultores. É um espaço demasiado pequeno para lamas e alpacas que se sentem presos por falta de espaço e morrem. Aqui não existem animais de carga como nas outras ilhas do lago, é tudo ao ombro.



Também vivem em comunidade e têm o lema de um por todos e todos por um.
O turismo é muito controlado e ninguém tenta vender nada a ninguém. Todas as famílias colocam o seu artesanato numa grande loja comum etiquetada com o preço e o nome da família. Tudo é registado num grande livro e o produto da venda de qualquer peça é dividido igualmente por toda a comunidade e pela família que a produziu.
Assim como os trinta restaurantes existentes na ilha, todos têm o mesmo menu com os mesmos preços e funcionam em cooperativismo. Não escolhemos onde vamos comer, é nos dito à entrada da ilha qual o restaurante onde nos devemos dirigir para almoçar, de modo a todos terem o mesmo numero de clientes. O maior restaurante da ilha é propriedade de todos e a sua exploração roda por todas as famílias mensalmente com a respectiva divisão dos lucros.
Aqui não há policias ou tribunais.

Existe um ditado na ilha que diz “Podemos ter problemas apenas de 2ª a domingo!” Todos os domingos, os 25 chefes das aldeias se reúnem com a população na praça principal onde são expostas todas as situações que possam gerar conflito. Em conjunto decidem e a decisão é sempre acatada por todas as partes.



Estes 25 chefes de aldeias e o alcaide, são cargos não remunerados e todos os anos são eleitos novos homens casados para os exercer. Toca a todos e é rotativo.
Aqui também têm de viver juntos três anos antes de casarem e é uma grande alegria para a família se uma rapariga com 16 anos chegar a casa e disser que esta gravida. É sinal que vai seguir a tradição, casar e viver na ilha. Nos dias de hoje muitos escolhem ir estudar para a cidade e não voltam. Um filho casar e ficar na ilha é uma apólice de seguro para a família.

No entanto, apesar da mesma cultura e costumes, esta ilha difere de todas as outras porque a roupa que vestem e que diz praticamente tudo sobre os seus habitantes. Desde o estado civil ao estado da alma. E todos andam assim vestidos na ilha, inclusive os uniformes escolares.
A começar pela confecção das próprias roupas que é uma coisa pessoal, cada um faz a sua e a das crianças é feita, para as meninas pelos pais e para os meninos pelas mães. Isto até terem idade para fazerem a sua própria vestimenta. É muito fácil ver homens a tricotar enquanto caminham pela rua tal é a prática por o fazerem desde crianças.



Assim que uma mulher engravida, como não há maneira de saber se vai ser menino ou menina, ambos confeccionam roupas para o novo bebé. Ela vermelho e branco para o possível rapaz e ela vermelho e castanho para a possível rapariga. Estas são as cores que vestem até aos cinco anos.
A partir dessa idade vestem-se como os adulto apenas a posição do gorro é diferente.
Para os homens existem três tipos de gorro e duas maneiras de usa-lo:
Branco e vermelho com um pompom colorido para os solteiros, usado para trás se ainda estão aos cuidados dos pais e são descomprometidos;



O mesmo gorro mas usado para o lado se são independentes e comprometidos.
Não encontrei nenhum para tirar foto.
Um gorro colorido e posto para trás se são casados


Colorido mas curto e com um chapéu por cima, durante o ano que são chefes. Nesse ano os seus filhos também usam o mesmo gorro colorido como o pai.


Nas mulheres, além das cores das 4 ou 5 sais que usas serem diferentes e indicarem o seu estado civil, chegam em dias de festa vestir 30 saias. Mas o mais relevante na sua indumentária são os dois pompons que usam pendurados à cintura.


Assim, mostram um ou outro conforme o estado da alma. Se estão alegres mostram o vermelho e laranja na parte exterior mas se estão tristes ou com algum problema mostra o pompom da tristeza que é rosa claro na parte exterior. Para que todos se inteirem do problema e dêm conforto


Esta história dos pompons e dos gorros também serve para comunicar e arranjar namorados nas três únicas oportunidades anuais que têm. São as festas da ilha onde se juntam todos e recebem visitas de pessoas das outras ilhas. Não cabe aos homens arranjar mulher mas sim o contrario e não é necessário sequer dizer uma palavra.
Eles só têm de esperar que elas se lhes dirijam e mostrem o pompom da alegria e elas só o podem fazer a jovens que usem o gorro de solteiros e puxado para trás (sinal de descomprometido). Se ela não agradar só têm de colocar o gorro para o lado. É um sinal que a coisa não se dá.

Outra coisa curiosa é a maneira como se cumprimentam quando se encontram.
Os homens casados trazem à cintura uma pequena bolsa colorida com dois pompons, no seu interior estão folhas de coca e trocam quando se cumprimentam. Se não tiverem folhas de coca para trocar nem se cumprimentam porque é uma afronta muito grande. As mulheres transportam as folhas de coca que trocam, em pequenas bolsas ou nos grandes sacos que sempre carregam ás costas.



A quantidade de pessoas que eu vi nas horas que passeie pela ilha, todas vestidas da mesma maneira, não me sugere que se tenham vestido todos assim para os turistas verem. São costumes muito curiosos que se mantiveram ao longo dos anos e ainda bem que assim é e que tive a oportunidade de lá ir comer um peixinho do lago.

 
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