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Diário de Bordo
Cidade Subterrânea 2/6/2011
Depois de mais de doze horas de estrada em que apenas passamos duas povoações, duas roadhouses e uma dúzia de carros chegamos ao nosso primeiro destino nesta road trip pelo deserto australiano, Coober Pedy.
Ao chegar a Coober Pedy o deserto muda de imagem e aparecem milhares de buracos e pilhas de terra por todo o lado. A razão para este cenário são as Opalas, uma pedra preciosa que levou à criação desta aberração de cidade no meio do nada, no meio das planícies áridas e desérticas do Red Heart Australiano, onde as temperaturas são desumanas.



Chegamos muito perto das 20h e assim que a porta do autocarro se abriu parecia que tinha aberto a porta do forno lá de casa. Um bafo quente impressionante dificultava-me a respiração. O sol ainda muito quente fez-me colocar o chapéu. Olhei para a frente e um marcador electrónico grande tinha escrito aquilo que suspeitava, muito calor. Tinha escrito os números 42 em letras garrafais. Sim estavam 42ºC às oito da noite.

Mais tarde o mesmo marcador apontava 32ºC à meia-noite. Impressionante. Nunca na minha vida senti tanto calor. Já nessa tarde numa das roadhouses que paramos um termómetro dos antigos marcava 43 à sombra. Um senhor que também punha gasolina diz-nos que o seu carro marcava ao sol 50ºC.



Não é de admirar portanto que as pessoas nesta cidade vivam de uma forma diferente. Vivem quase na sua maioria debaixo da terra. Aí conseguem viver durante todo o ano em temperaturas amenas sem necessitarem de ar condicionado ou aquecedores. As temperaturas rondam sempre entre os 23ºC. O que também é bom para o inverno, altura em que as temperaturas nocturnas atingem valores negativos.

Foi assim que dormimos. Com essa temperatura e debaixo da terra. Num hostel com camaratas esculpidas na pedra. Fresquinho, fresquinho!

 

Inicialmente as primeiras habitações debaixo da terra eram apenas um buraco com um colchão, mas neste momento evoluíram para casas completas com salas com televisão, cozinhas completas, casas de banho, elecricidade e tudo o que uma casa normal tem em qualquer local do mundo. Alias para se construir ou ampliar uma casa também aqui se tem de pedir autorização às autoridades locais porque já aconteceram casos de pessoas começar a escavar para o lado e entrar em casa doutras pessoas. Assim, neste momento começam a haver casas com dois andares, ou seja, escavam para baixo.




Nas horas em que passeie na cidade não vi quase ninguém na rua sem ser alguns aborígenes que vagueiam pelas ruas. Mas o que é facto é que a cidade está viva e muita coisa acontece porque além das casas debaixo da terra existem ainda lojas, bares, restaurantes, hotéis, hostels e até imagine-se uma igrejas debaixo da terra. Locais que acabei por visitar e que são muito interessantes. Nem todas as coisas são debaixo da terra mas a maioria é, não é apenas para turista ver.

 


O deserto à volta da cidade é de uma desolação brutal. E quando vos digo isto não consigo transmitir o quanto. Nem as fotos conseguem. Só passando mesmo por cá. E a vista de um dos miradouros da cidade mostram-me isso mesmo. É de tal forma brutal e visualmente impressionante que muitos realizadores de cinema vieram até aqui para fazer filmes épicos de “Fim do Mundo” como Mad Max III, Red Planet, Ground Zero ou mesmo outros como Priscilla, a Rainha do deserto.

Apesar de dizer que este local é uma aberração e de dificilmente conseguir compreender que hajam pessoas que queiram viver aqui ou passar aqui mais do que meia dúzia de horas, acho que é um local imperdível para quem visita a Austrália. Acho que merece sem sombra de dúvidas uma visita de quem faz uma road trip desde o sul até ao Red
Center. E se anteriormente escrevi que iria encontrar coisas diferentes, com certeza, neste país, aqui está uma delas
definitivamente. Diferente de tudo o que alguma vez vi na vida: uma cidade subterrânea, uma cidade no meio do nada, uma cidade onde as temperaturas são brutais.


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Mais uma viagem pela inóspitas planícies do centro da Austrália. Prossegue rumo à povoação mineira de Coober Pedy;li em qualquer lado que Coober Pedy tem fama de pouco acolhedora,será verdade?Consta-se que é um lugar para homens ditos de barba rija, que para lá se derigiam em busca de fortuna. Também se diz que é um lugar de doidos; se ficarem lá mais do que uma noite só podem ser malucos".A extração de opalas, uma pedra preciosa apreciada do oriente às Americas,tem Coober Pedy como o expoente máximo dessa abundância.A razão para tão inólitas construções é puramente climatérica.Deve ser bom morar nessa cidade, pelo menos não há furacões.Para mim seria um grande sacrificio dormir dentro desses buracos; bom, não dormia.Rui,você tem-nos dado a conhecer sitios maravilhosos, sítios de sonho e outros um pouco estranhos. Obrigado por nos dar a conhecer este maravilhoso mundo.
Continuação de boa viagem.
Um beijinho.


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Queremos mais conta como foi a costa oeste!

Bjs


Anónimo  em 2/13/2011

Pois eu sou do contra, "coisas" debaixo da terra só as minhocas, rapaz olha o que eu te digo não ... não ... e não ... Pira-te dai ... Igrejas debaixo da terra, ai ... se a minha sogra desconfia ... lá teria eu que te cravar uma visita guiada com ela por um ano (de 24 mesês) ... .Beijos

D e Z  em 2/11/2011

Não sei como o ser humano aguenta c/temperaturas tão elevadas... Eu depois dos 32º já não me aguento, baixa-me a tensão e sinto-me mal...A tua descrição é excelente e as fotos também E impensáve q debaixo da terra no deserto haja essas casas alíás c/ bom aspecto... Até têm uma igreja!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Obrigada por esta descrição e fotos.
Que deus te continue a acompanhar .Beijinhosb


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Tiago Santos  em 2/9/2011

Estou a imaginar o Rui "Branquinho" Correia a torrar ao Sol com mais de 40º... lololol
Esta viagem está-te a mudar meu caro.
Gosto do relato. Tal como já foi aqui referenciado inúmeras vezes, dá para viajar pelos caminhos e conhecer um pouco os sítios que andas a cruzar.
Temos de falar. Ando um pc desencontrado dos teus horários (normal) mas tb as tuas road trips acho que contribuem para os desencontros.
Temos saudades tuas. Mas queremos ver-te a virar mais países, mais culturas, mais experiências por essa tua rota que encerrará lá mais para o Verão.
Don´t forget. I´ll meet you half away.
Força O Reilly. Mesmo a grande distância estamos contigo.
Grande abraço. Beijinhos lá de casa..
Walk On my friend I Will Follow


Flannagan  em 2/9/2011

Muito bom! Gostei, até parece que abri o post e senti o calor...

Nuno Sousa  em 2/7/2011

Obrigado pela boa descrição que quase me fez lá estar.
Boa viagem


A Simões  em 2/7/2011

Bemmm nunca tinha ouvido (ou melhor .. lido) nada assim.. casas debaixo da terra?? k cena brutal.. olha cm a crise está por cá, tb deviamos ter por cá alguma coisa desse género.. poupávamos nos ares condicionados durante o verao ;)) bj e continuação de boa viagem

Rita Reis  em 2/7/2011

Espectáculo!!! Mto bom!!! Deve ser mesmo um lugar "do outro mundo"! Quentinho, quentinho! Era capaz de gostar! LOL!
Keep going!
Bjo grd!


CR  em 2/6/2011

Excelente descrição, Rui ! Consegui sentir o calor, a aridez ... e o fresquinho das casas como as dos trogloditas, que já visitei.
Bjs e WALK ON !


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