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Caminhos que cruzei - Nepal 11/4/2010
O Tibete teve um grande impacto em mim por isso não sabia como iria sentir e absorver este novo país.

Assim que entrei nele percebi que era diferente, muito diferente. Talvez por isso tenha sido fácil adaptar-me e tenha adorado. Como gosto de tudo o que é diferente, como gosto de culturas diferentes, adorei. E como não há a opressão que senti no Tibete foi muito fácil gostar.
 
Kathmandu é uma experiência extraordinária, é como escrevi num dos meus textos um “atropelo” aos sentidos. Estamos constantemente a observar coisas e situações fora do normal para nós europeus. Os sons, os cheiros, as cores, as atitudes das pessoas são completamente distintos e por isso para mim extremamente interessantes. A confusão das ruas com transito caótico, a poluição que existe no ar, as pessoas constantemente a tentar vender tudo e mais alguma coisa, os templos extraordinários que existem espalhados pela cidade e por vezes em becos e em pequenas ruelas; tudo isto transforma esta cidade numa experiência intoxicante, espectacular, inesquecível mas por vezes cansativa.



Assim procurei também sair da cidade e há imensa coisa para ver à volta da cidade.

Os locais considerados World Heritage pela Unesco: Bakhtapur e Patan que se encontram no Vale de Kathmandu que só por si são uma espécie de museu da cultura Nepalesa.

E os templos de Bodhnath, Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Pashupatinath que são verdadeiros locais de culto e onde se respira um serenidade e paz que contrasta em muito com a cidade. Os dois primeiros são templos Budistas, e o terceiro é Hindu e são definitivamente os mais importantes da nação. São locais onde passei algumas horas simplesmente a observar. E posso-vos dizer que Pashupatinath é uma experiência impressionante. É o local sagrado de funerais junto ao rio Bagmati. É diferente, agressivo e por vezes chocante. Gostei muito da Stupa de Bodhnath e por isso visitei-a por mais que uma vez.



O trekking de 18 dias que fizemos no Annapurna deu para apreciar a beleza natural pela qual é mais conhecida esta nação. Se a meio achava que eram demasiados dias, no final adorei e se calhar ainda tinha andado mais uns quantos dias. Fez-me muito bem física e psicologicamente. Ajudou-me a tomar decisões a definir situações, a fazer planos, a pensar no futuro e no presente. Foi muito bom. Permitiu-me também conhecer melhor as pessoas do Nepal, nomeadamente os Sherpas e também cruzar os meus caminhos com mais uma série de pessoas, algumas das quais extremamente interessantes e cujos caminhos talvez irei cruzar no futuro.

 

Pokhara foi um local óptimo para descansar e restabelecer forças depois de muitos dias a andar. É uma cidade tranquila á beira do lago Phewa Tal. Bastante turístico mas encontra-se sempre um cantinho sossegado para ler, escrever ou apenas conversar com as muitas pessoas que conheci por aqui e outras que reencontrei depois da caminhada.
Serviu também para fazer algumas coisas que tinha planeado para esta viagem: voluntariado com crianças duas manhãs no Butterfly Foundation; aulas de meditação nas quais não consegui estar em pleno e uma experiência espectacular para repetir seguramente – Paragliding (VIDEO), onde voei pela primeira vez sem ser num avião.



Antes de seguir para Kathmandu novamente, resolvi parar numa pequena aldeia a meio caminho – Bandipur. Uma aldeia fantástica e um verdadeiro museu vivo da cultura Newari, outra das etnias mais importantes deste país depois dos Sherpas. Se partes do país parecem paradas no tempo, esta aldeia é o seu maior exemplo. Aqui parece que as pessoas vivem algumas décadas atrás do resto do país.
Com arquitectura do século 18 e um ambiente mediaval esta pequena aldeia soube-me lindamente nos poucos dias que ali estive. Ainda por cima daqui vi o por do sol mais bonito que me lembro dos últimos tempos. Fantástico e mereceu mesmo a paragem.


 
As pessoas são todas muito simpáticas e sempre disponíveis para ajudar. Quase todas falam Inglês inclusive nas montanhas em pequenas vilas e aldeias, sinal que o turismo é realmente a principal fonte de receita deste país que é um dos mais pobres do mundo.
Só as pessoas que estão sempre a tentar vender-nos coisas nas ruas de Kathmandu e os Sadus, uma espécie de holly man, que nos estão sempre a tentar pôr pintas na testa a troco de dinheiro são um pouco aborrecidos.

 
Comida: No geral a comida no Nepal é boa e barata. Comi o prato tipico do Nepal - o Daal bhaat por várias vezes e é curioso que nunca é feito da mesma maneira. Em cada sítio que se vai é diferente. Também comi muitas vezes comida indiana que adoro.



Durante o trekking, muitas vezes ao pequeno-almoço comi pão Tibetano com mel. Bebi muito chá, principalmente chá preto. Aliás nas montanhas quase me transformei em vegetariano outra vez, tais foram as raras vezes eu comi carne, um hambúrguer de Iaque e uns bocados de galinha foram a excepção em dezoito dias.  

Os restaurantes são baratos, podendo comer uma refeição com bebida entre os 2 e os 5 euros em média. Para terem uma noção um litro de água engarrafada custa 20 rupias, cerca de 20 cêntimos euro. Aqui há no entanto uma excepção, nas montanhas, porque quanto mais alto mais cara a água fica. A razão é simples: algum porter teve de as carregar durante vários dias as costas. Cheguei a pagar 200 rupias por uma água,
 

Palavras aprendidas e usadas em Nepalês:

Na-mas-te – olá

Ha-jur - Por favor

Dhan-ya-bad – Obrigado

Theek-cha – Ok

Ram-ro – Bom

Feri-bei-tala – Até logo

Zam zam - Vamos

…e mais uma série deles tentadas mas sem grande sucesso.
 

Em termos de custos tudo muito barato. Para dormir paguei entre 4 e 7 euros, para comer ainda menos e os transportes locais são super baratos, por isso consegui manter-me dentro dos 25€ diários, excepto nos dias do trekking que sai um pouco mais caro porque também tínhamos o guia e o porter para pagar.

 
Desde que saí de Lisboa e até sair do Nepal já percorri cerca de 38.000 kms, nos seguintes meios de transportes:

Avião 9
Comboio 6
Metro vários
Minivan 4
Local bus MNG 5
Minivan Russa 1
Cavalos 2
Camelos 1
Carrinha 2
Local bus China demais
Taxis vários
Comboio Bala 1
Barco Bambo 2
Mota 1
Barco Cruzeiro 1
MTR (metro HK) vários
Autocarro Macau 2
Ferry 3
TurboJet 2
Minivan Chinesa 1
Minivan Nepal 1
Rafting 1
Avião Montanha 1
Bus Nepal 4
 

Pessoas com quem me dei, e não apenas com quem me cruzei ou troquei algumas palavras, porque essas são já difíceis de contar:

Rússia 2
Índia 1
França 3
Eslovénia 2
Finlândia 2
Suécia 2
Alemanha 3
Portugal 6
Mongólia 4
Holanda 7
Austrália 2
China 7
Coreia 2
Polónia 1
Letónia 1
Dinamarca 2
EUA 5
Inglaterra 2
Macau 4
Brasil 1
Tibete 2
Nepal 4
Israelitas 4
Espanha 2
Total 71
 


O Nepal esteve ao nível das expectativas que tinha quando planeei a viagem. No entanto confesso que mesmo tendo as expectativas elevadas relativamente às paisagens e montanhas, elas mesmo assim conseguiram surpreender-me. Mas acima de tudo a hospitalidade e simpatia dos Nepaleses esteve acima das minhas expectativas.

Foi um dos países em que consegui absorver mais a cultura, a maneira de estar das pessoas, a religião, a musica…tudo. De tal forma que dei por mim nos últimos dez dias a explicar imensa coisa sobre o país e os nepaleses às pessoas com quem me tenho cruzado e com quem tenho partilhado estes últimos dias.

Nos últimos dez dias aqui no Nepal eu e o Jorge seguimos os nossos caminhos separados, com opções diferentes de viagem, e nesses dias nunca estive sozinho. Conheci imensa gente e fiz um grande amigo, que já referenciei no texto anterior, o Israelita Eran.


 
Acho que este será um país onde terei de voltar.
Como diz o slogan do turismo no Nepal: Once is not enough!

Walk On!
PUBLICADA POR: RUI

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Namasté! Quero dizer que gostei muito do vosso artigo e fotos da vossa viagem, pois vim há cerca de 1 mês do norte da Índia, e a experiência revelou-se bastante idêntica, apenas com a comida é que sofri um pouco, por ser muito picante e a falta de higiene, que provocou-me a diarreia do viajante, mas de resto faz tudo parte da experiência dos sentidos e viver o melhor possível a viagem. Boa sorte!

João Fonseca  em 11/18/2010

Na-mas-te, Rui.
Your experience is valuable! friends, culture, thinking...etc, everything is great!
Continue your trip! :)


icy  em 11/12/2010

Achei interessante o comentário da comentadora anterior, q vai acompanhar a tua viagem p/incluir na sua pasta de escola.Agora terá de aguardar cerca de 15 dias para obter + comentários para as suas aulas na Universidade,como professora de antropologia.Os alunos vão agradecer...

ines /mae  em 11/7/2010

Belo resumo, pelo que li acho que adoraste mesmo. Mt fixe!

Anónimo  em 11/5/2010

Que bonita evolucao...
Tenho a certeza quando achares que essa aventura acabou (nao interessa tempo)vais estar uma pessoa completamente diferente...
Um xi cheio de energia e luz...
Continuacao de boa aventura


Isabel Fernandes  em 11/4/2010

Descrição ***** !
Carpe diem = Catch the day
Agarra cada dia, Rui.
Bjnhs.


Maria Antónia Cantante  em 11/4/2010

Namaste Rui: Mais um belíssimo texto com belas fotos.Também gostei muito desse país .Mas nada tem a ver c/o Ocidente, está muito perto da idade média...Tudo é diferente. Também achei as pessoas muito amistosas. Andamos sempre descontraidos nas ruas porque não há assaltos nem roubos como acpontece em muitos países ditos civilizados.
Que Deus te continue a acompanhar . Beijinhos para ambos.Boa viagem


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QUANTO AO TEU VOO ACHO Q DEVE COMO TU DIZES SER UMA EXPERIENCIA FANTÁSTICA. SE EU SENTISSE SEGURANÇA QUEM SABE SE APESAR DA MINHA IDADE N/AO EXPERIMENTARIA?
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ines /mae  em 11/4/2010

Apreciei todO O comentário da sua estadia em Nepal. Foi-me o seu contacto, porque estava a apresentar uma aula de Antropologia e que me indicaram o programa. Gostei e apreciei o assunto do Nepal. Eu gostaria tambem de fazer essas viagens mas já não tenho idade paras fazer assim aproveito o saber que outros muito mais jovens o fazem. Este por acaso foi contacto com um aluno que me falou deste programa. Gostei e espero ter mais outras paragens para incluir nna minha pasta da escola. Um muito obrigada, desejo que continue para eu poder contar aos meus alunos que são da Universidade da Terceira Idade da Misericordia deEriceira. Boa sorte Leonor Matos Saraiva

Leonor Matos Saraiva  em 11/4/2010



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